I’ve spent two decades working with coffee, from sourcing beans to training baristas, and one preparation method that always draws me back is Armenian coffee. Known as soorj, it captures the essence of daily life in Armenia through its straightforward brewing and strong ties to family and friends. In this post, I’ll cover the history, how it’s made, and its place in Armenian culture, drawing from reliable accounts to keep things accurate.
The History of Armenian Coffee
Coffee reached Armenia through trade routes from the Ottoman Empire, where it originated in regions like Yemen and spread from Ethiopia across the Middle East. By the 16th century, it had become part of Armenian daily routines, especially in social settings. Armenians adopted the method of boiling finely ground beans in a small pot, a practice that mirrored similar traditions in neighboring areas but took on local flavors.
Armenian merchants played a key role in bringing coffee to Europe in the 17th century. Many came from New Julfa in Iran, a center for Armenian trade communities. In 1672, an Armenian named Pascal, or Harutiun, opened the first coffeehouse in Paris called Café Procope at the Foire Saint-Germain fair. This spot later became famous as a hub for writers and thinkers, serving coffee in the Armenian style—strong and unfiltered. Pascal’s café introduced Parisians to the drink, which was then new and mostly limited to elite circles.
In Vienna, another Armenian, Johannes Diodato (also known as Hovhannes Avedis), opened Europe’s first registered coffeehouse in 1685. Diodato, a former Ottoman courier, received special permission from the city to sell coffee, helping it gain popularity after the siege of Vienna. These establishments weren’t just places to drink; they fostered discussions on politics and ideas, much like in Armenia. Armenians also set up coffeehouses in Marseille, Venice, and London around the same time, earning a reputation as skilled coffee traders.
By the 18th century, the term “coffee merchant” often referred to Armenians in European records. Their influence extended to roasting and serving practices, where they emphasized fresh grinding and slow brewing to preserve flavor. This spread helped coffee become a everyday staple across the continent. In Armenia itself, coffee remained a home ritual, ground by hand and shared during meals or visits.
To illustrate the timeline of these introductions, here’s a simple table based on historical records:
| Year | Event | Location |
|---|---|---|
| 1672 | Pascal opens Café Procope | Paris, France |
| 1685 | Diodato opens first coffeehouse | Vienna, Austria |
| Late 1600s | Coffeehouses in Marseille and Venice | France and Italy |
| 1700s | Armenian merchants dominate trade | Across Europe |
This table shows how quickly Armenians helped integrate coffee into European life.
How Armenian Coffee Is Prepared
Making soorj requires attention to detail, but the process is simple with the right tools. You need a jazzve—a small, long-handled pot made of copper or brass—and finely ground coffee beans. The grind is finer than espresso, almost like powder, to create a thick consistency.
Start with cold water in the jazzve, about half a cup for two servings. Add two heaped teaspoons of ground coffee per half cup of water. Sugar goes in at this stage if you want it—Armenians often choose from three levels: sade (no sugar), mijaz (medium, about a teaspoon), or tatte (heavy, two teaspoons). Some add a crushed green cardamom pod for aroma, though that’s optional and more common in certain families.
Heat the mixture over medium flame without stirring after the initial mix. Watch for the foam to rise as it warms—this crema is the sign of good preparation. When it starts to bubble and climb, lift the pot off the heat for 6-8 seconds to settle it. Return it to the flame and repeat this twice more, but never let it fully boil, as that ruins the texture. After the third rise, pour into small demitasse cups, foam first. The grounds settle at the bottom, so sip carefully to avoid them.
This method takes about 5-7 minutes and serves hot. In homes, people often hand-roast beans in small pans, listening for the crack to know when they’re ready. Electric jazzves exist for convenience, but the traditional stove version preserves the ritual feel.
The Role of Coffee in Armenian Culture
In Armenia, coffee goes beyond a morning pick-me-up; it’s a way to connect. Guests receive it as a welcome, with the host brewing it fresh to show care. During visits, the first cup goes to the oldest person present, a nod to respect for elders. Refusing it can seem rude, as it signals disinterest in the conversation ahead.
Family gatherings often center on coffee. In the 1990s, kids helped grind beans and watch the pot, learning the timing to prevent spills. Weddings and holidays like Christmas include it in toasts and talks. Serj Tankian, an Armenian musician, recalls the smell filling his childhood home, linking it to comfort and identity.
One standout tradition is tasseography, or reading the coffee grounds. After drinking, you turn the cup upside down on the saucer to let the patterns form. An elder interprets shapes—birds might mean travel, a house stability. This happens while the grounds dry, sparking stories and laughs. It’s usually the grandmother’s role, passed down generations.
Coffee also marks hospitality in broader ways. In Yerevan streets, people pause at small stands for a quick soorj and chat. During the Soviet era, it stayed a private custom, but post-independence, it symbolized continuity amid change.
For sweetness levels in Armenian coffee, consider this table, which outlines common preferences:
| Level | Sugar Amount (per cup) | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Sade | None | Plain and bold |
| Mijaz | 1 teaspoon | Balanced sweetness |
| Tatte | 2 teaspoons | Rich and sweet |
These options let people tailor it to taste, reflecting personal habits.
Traditions That Define Armenian Coffee
Several customs make soorj unique. Brewing in the jazzve creates that essential crema, a creamy top from the fine grind and slow heat. Hosts serve it with sweets like gata or dried fruits, balancing the bitterness.
The fortune-reading ties into folklore. Symbols vary by region, but common ones include snakes for trouble or flowers for joy. The reader often adds life advice, turning it into a teaching moment.
Blends matter too. Armenians import beans since the climate doesn’t suit growing, but they roast dark for body, sometimes mixing in cardamom. Hand-roasting in batches ensures even flavor, using senses over timers.
Serving follows etiquette: Pour foam first, place cups on a tray, and offer with a smile. In groups, it paces the talk, with refills keeping things going.
Armenian Coffee Today
In Armenia now, soorj faces challenges. Cafes in Yerevan lean toward espresso or lattes, viewing traditional coffee as too basic for menus. One barista in Dilijan called it unfit for public spots, pushing it to homes only. Yet, diaspora communities keep it alive— in the U.S. or France, Armenian shops roast and sell it widely.
Globally, interest grows. Brands like Kavat Coffee use Armenian methods, with electric pots for home use. Events like the Smithsonian Folklife Festival feature ceremonies, drawing crowds to learn the pour.
Consumption stats show coffee’s rise in Armenia: Annual intake hit about 1.5 kg per person by 2020, up from earlier decades, though much is instant or Western. Traditional soorj holds at family levels, resisting the shift.
A Simple Recipe for Armenian Coffee at Home
Here’s a tested recipe for two servings, based on standard practices.
Ingredients:
- ½ cup (120 ml) cold water
- 2 heaped teaspoons finely ground coffee
- 1 teaspoon sugar (adjust for preference)
- 1 crushed green cardamom pod (optional)
Steps:
- Pour the cold water into a jazzve.
- Add the coffee, sugar, and cardamom without stirring.
- Heat over medium flame.
- When foam rises at the edges, remove from heat for 6-8 seconds.
- Return to heat; repeat rising and removal twice more.
- Pour into demitasse cups, foam on top.
- Sip slowly, leaving grounds behind.
Tips: Use fresh grounds for best taste. If no jazzve, a small saucepan works, but watch closely. This yields a strong, aromatic cup ready in minutes.
Wrapping Up
Armenian coffee ties history to the present through its brew and customs. From European coffeehouses to home rituals, soorj builds bonds. Try it next time company comes over—it starts good talks. With its straightforward prep, it fits any kitchen, carrying forward a tradition worth keeping.